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Sailkit-Lateen for 10′ up



Porta-Bote - Sail Kit

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How to prepare:

Tools required to initially install the sail kit to your PORTA-BOTE:

Center punch; electric drill; drill bits 5/16”, 1/4”, 1/8” (8mm, 6mm, 3mm); Phillips screwdriver, level, sharp knife over 6” (15cm), and masking tape.

When setting up any sail, it is well to know the knots called: bowline, clove hitch, rolling hitch, cleat hitch, and stopper knot. If you need guidance with knots, there are good sites you can search on the internet, e.g. search for “animated knot”.

Terms: The instructions use ordinary English terms, followed in brackets by the corresponding nautical terms, e.g. “rope” [line] or [sheet].

Measurements are in feet and inches, followed in parentheses by approximate metric equivalents, e.g. 9’ (2.7m).

Note: Please read each step through to its end before proceeding with that step.

Inventory: Open the sail kit completely and compare your parts with the list on the next page. If any part of the sail kit is missing, please identify the part by name and by its Part No. (as listed & shown next). Notify Porta-Bote International by email: sk@portaBoat.com, or during business hours call in U.S.A. Pacific time, 1 (650) 961-5334.

We suggest that you retain the plastic, packing sleeves to use for transporting the sail rig on top of your car or for keeping the sail rig clean while it is being stored.

Porta-Bote recommends you complete set up the first time before going to the water to sail.

* The kit is for Botes built after 2011 having seats that fit into 2” (5cm) channels on the hull. For Botes built earlier, having seats that fit into 1” (2.5cm) channels on the hull, email ogilders@sbcglobal.net with your address for the appropriate mast step, cables, and instructions: Included, no shipping charge.

Parts List

Sail: custom designed and manufactured for Porta-Bote by world renowned sailmaker Rolly Tasker.
2-Tubes, 1” (2.5cm) diameter by 12.5’ (3.8m) long. The tube with 3 pad eyes [lacing straps] is the lower, horizontal tube [boom]. The tube with 2 pad eyes is the upper, inclined tube [gaff].
Mast, 10’ x 1.5” (3m x 3.8cm) with 5 cables, ring with welded bolt [gooseneck], pad eye, and 2 cleats attached to the mast.
5 nylon-coated steel-cables, 1/8” [3mm]. The cables support the mast: the [bow stay] that holds the mast forward, [2 shrouds] that hold the mast sideways, and [2 backstays] that hold the mast backward. The shrouds and back stays have turnbuckles. The back stays have chains.
11’ (3.3m) rope [bow stay] that holds the mast up forwards.
23’ (7m) rope [halyard] for raising the sail up the mast.
25’ (7.6m) rope [main sheet] for catching the wind with the sail. It is tied to a pulley [block] that runs along a nylon coated cable L-10 [traveler].
2 pulleys [blocks] for attaching the 25’ (7.6m) rope, L-7, [main sheet] to the lower tube [boom].
Rudder, steering tube [tiller], and extension tube.
5’ (1.5m) cable [traveler] with pulley [block] for switching the main sheet over the rudder steering tube [tiller] and extension tube.
Two 4’ (1.2m) aluminum panels [leeboards] with 8” (20 cm) round, plastic pads.
2 Strings [lanyards], 36” x 1/8” (.9m x 2mm) for sail and rudder.
5 metric bolts with wing nuts or nylon insert nuts and 4 screws.
4 pad eyes 1” (2.5cm) [lacing straps] to bolt to seat channels.
Base [mast step], 6” x 10” (15cm x 25cm) to support the mast on the Bote’s front seat.
Six clips 1” (2.5cm) [shackles] to attach cables [shrouds and back stays] to the pad eyes [lacing straps] and to attach main sheet blocks, L-8, to the boom.

See back page for picture of hardware parts (L-12, L-13, and L-14)

How to build the Sail Kit

1- Bote set-up: Open your Bote and insert all seats; refer to the Bote instructions. Place a level across the front seat. Brace the boat on firm ground so that the front seat is level..

Asterisks (*) precede steps with associated pictures. Picture captions provide their step number.

2- * Rudder holes: Using the 2 pre-drilled “pilot holes” in the motor mount pad as a template, drill 1/4” (6mm) holes through the membrane and transom. For easier assembly, lift the motor mount pad and enlarge the holes in the membrane and transom to 5/16 th inch (8mm).

3- * Leeboard holes: To install the leeboards, drill a 1⁄4” (6 mm) hole on each side of Bote.

Step 2- Rudder holes

For 14’ or 12’ Botes

For 10’ Botes

Step 3 – Leeboard holes

On 14’ or 12’ Bote: 1-1/2” (3.7 cm) above the 2nd seat from the front and aside the seat pin. On 10’ Bote: 1-1/2” (4 cm) back [aft] of the rear edge of the 2 nd seat from the front and just above line with the top of the metal channel that holds the seat.

4- * Traveler holes: Drill 1⁄4” (6mm) holds through the hull, above the transom hinges.

Step 4 – Traveler holes

5- * Metal plate [Mast step]: The mast step spreads the load of the mast on the front seat and holds the base of the mast in place. To set up, put the mast step on top of the front seat so that the mast support cup is directly lined up above the middle leg of the seat. Drill one 1/8” (3mm) hole at the side of the mast step and half way across the top of the seat. Install one 1/2” (13mm) screw down to the surface of the seat. Place the mast step on the seat up against the installed screw head. Drill the second 1/8” (3mm) hole on the opposite side of the mast step so that there will be about 1/16 ” (1mm) gap between its screw head and the mast step.

Step 5 – Metal plate [Mast step]

6- * Pad eyes [lacing straps] for back stays: Install a lacing strap on each seat channel of the 1st and 2nd seat from the front of the Bote. Locate the lacing strap close to the hull with the bolt holes in line toward the center of the 1st seat where the mast will stand.

Front seat (bow)

Second seat from front (bow)

Step 6 – Pad eyes (Lacing straps)

Shift the seat aside and drill one 1/8” (3mm) hole close to the hull. With the washer between the head of the bolt and the seat channel, insert the bolt it up from within the seat channel and through the lacing strap. Add the second washer and firm up the nylon-insert nut. Twist the lacing strap so that the second hole will be toward the center of the front seat.

Drill through the seat channel using the hole in the lacing strap as a guide. Install the second bolt similarly, and tighten up both nylon-insert nuts.

7- * Cables: For the bow stay, insert the split chain link of the bow stay cable on the mast collar hole that is opposite the cleats.

For the back stays, twist the turnbuckles of the back stays with chains to the mast collar bolts closest to the cleats.

For the shrouds, twist the turnbuckles of the shrouds to the remaining mast collar bolts.

Step 7 – Cables

8- * Mast: Lay the mast down the middle of the Bote with the cleats toward the front of the Bote. Clip [shackle] the back stay chains to the pad eyes [lacing straps] on the next seat. Twist the back stay turnbuckles so that they are half extended.

Tie the bow stay rope [line] to the front of the Bote through one grommet. Best knot is a bowline. Alternately, put a stopper knot on the end of the line. Run the rope [line] through the bow stay cable loop that is away from the mast. Run the rope [line] through the opposite bow grommet back into the Bote. Run the line under the middle of the front seat. Do not run the rope between the bow grommets because the flexibility of the hull would allow the mast to move too much.

Step 8 – Mast

Brace the Bote so that it is level and will not rock side to side. If you do not have Porta Bote Dolly wheels to hold the boat steady, brace the Bote with bricks, blocks, etc.

Raise the mast onto the step on the front seat. Pull the bow stay tight making the back stays tight and cleat hitch the bow stay line to the mast’s lower cleat. Repeat using different links of the back-stay chain and turnbuckle adjustments until the mast stands up vertically.

Step 9 – Shrouds

9- Side cables [Shrouds]: With the shroud turnbuckles extended sufficiently, pull the shrouds out toward the front seat channels. Clip [shackle] the shrouds to the pad eyes [lacing straps]. When the mast is pushed by a good wind, the Bote should flex and the opposite shroud should sag about an inch.Avoid making the turnbuckles too tight.

Twist the turnbuckle body on the cable all the way down the cable’s bolt and lightly jam it there. Twist the cable and turnbuckle body up the bolt on the mast collar. When the cable tension allows the intended flexibility, twist the nut on the eye bolt close to the mast down to the top of the turnbuckle jam it to the turnbuckle body to hold its position.

10- Rudder: Attach the hinge to the rudder with the 15mm bolt and nylon insert nut. Use the hole in the hinge close to the narrow edge. Tighten so that the hinge can rotate. In the other hole use the 15mm bolt and wing nut. Tighten so that the hinge can let the rudder ride up if a hard object is hit while the boat is moving forward.

Step 10 – Rudder

How to set up for sailing

Special Notes:

If you don’t know how to sail….for your safety, get lessons at a sailing school.

For more information, see:

Home Page

NOTE: Make sure when setting up the sail kit that there are no power lines that the mast and sail could touch, either where you set up the Bote or on your way to the water or from the water.

1- Bote set up: As during installation, set up the Bote with all seats and the transom.

2- Rudder: Attach the rudder to the bote with the 70mm rudder bolts, washers and wing nuts. On the hinge, adjust the wing nut so that the rudder will pop up if it hits bottom.

3- * Cable [Traveler] with pulley [block]: Install the 5’ (1.5m) cable [traveler] with pulley [block] across the rear of the Bote and above the rudder tiller and extension. The eye bolts stick through the hull and the washer and wing nut are installed outside the Bote.

While out of the water, to avoid the rudder dragging on the ground, it can be tied up to the traveler eye bolt with the 3’ [1m] string [lanyard] across the back of the Bote.

Step 3 – Cable [traveler] with pulley [block]

4- * Panels [Leeboards]: Attach the leeboards. Insert a 1.3” x 1⁄4” (30mm x 6mm) bolt starting through the hump, not the valley that runs the length of the leeboard. Add the 8” (20 cm) round pad on the bolt between the leeboard and the Bote to avoid scraping the hull. Then, insert the bolt through the hole you have drilled in the side of the Bote. Add a washer on the inside and tighten with a wing nut. Tighten only enough to prevent the leeboard from slipping.

5- Mast: Run the halyard through the pad eye on the top end of the mast and hitch it to the top cleat on the mast. Setup the mast step and cables as done during installation. Twist the turnbuckles up to the nuts jammed together. Clip [shackle] the cables with chains [back stays] to their pad eyes [lacing straps]. Set up the bow stay, running the line back under the front seat. Raise the mast, tighten the bow stay line, and hitch to the mast’s lower cleat. Shackle the shrouds to their lacing straps.

Step 4 – Panels [Leeboards]

6- * Sail set up: Lay out the sail on a clean surface. The edge of the sail with 1 slot is the top edge [the luff]. One 12.5’ x 1” (3.7m x 2.5cm) tube [the gaff] has 2 pad eyes [lacing straps] which match up with the slot along the sail’s front edge [luff]. Fully insert the end of this tube that has no lacing strap into the sail luff sleeve.

The edge of the sail with 3 slots is the bottom edge [the foot]. The other tube has 3 lacing straps, two of which match up with slots in the sail foot. Fully insert the end of this tube that has no lacing strap into the sail foot sleeve.

Step 6 – Sail Set up

Step 7 – Sail string (In-hauls)

7 – * Sail string [In-hauls]: Tie the middle of the 36” x 1/8” (.9m x 3mm) string [lanyard] to the sail grommet so that the string’s two ends in-hauls are available for separately stretching out the sail. Best knot would be a clove hitch.The sail should be straight along the tubes, with no wrinkles either parallel or perpendicular to the tubes [spars].

8- * Sail rope [Halyard]: At the sail slot where the top tube [gaff] has a pad eye, that pad eye must be turned inward toward the sail. Tie around the gaff one end of the rope [halyard] that runs up to the top of the mast. Tie the knot close to the gaff so that the sail will be raised up all the way to the top of the mast.

Note: Tying the halyard only to the pad eye [lacing strap] will result in the lacing strap being pulled off the gaff; hence the need to tie the rope [line] around the gaff and through the lacing strap inside the sail slot.

Step 8 – Mast rope (halyard)

9 – Set sail: While allowing the sail freedom to turn into the wind, pull the halyard to raise the sail to the top of the mast. Tie [hitch] the halyard to the mast’s upper cleat.

Step 10 – Ring bolt (Gooseneck)

10 – * Ring bolt [Gooseneck]: Using the line up the mast (halyard), raise the sail all the way up the mast. Insert the gooseneck bolt through the hole in the lower tube [boom] at the sail slot closest to the exposed ends of the tubes. Tighten its wing nut down against the eye bolt at the end of the theads to jam it sufficient to prevent the wing nut from falling off during sailing…

11 -* Pulleys [sheet blocks]: Using clips [shackles], attach the two sheet blocks to the bottom tube [boom]. For each, shackle, insert its pin through the washer on the pad eye [lacing strap] included on a boom and rotate the shackle’s pin until it snaps in place.

Step 11 – Pulleys [sheet blocks]

Step 12 – Sailing rope [Main sheet]

12 – * Sailing rope [main sheet]: Run the 25’ (7.6m) main sheet through the boom pulleys [blocks]. From the pulley (block) furthest from the mast, attach the end of the main sheet to the traveler block that runs on the cable above the tiller at the back end of the Bote. Tie to the narrow end of the traveler block so that the block’s roller can run along the traveler. A bowline knot is best. At the end of the main sheet coming from the block closest to the mast, tie a stopper knot to avoid the main sheet backing out of the blocks during sailing.

13 – PFDs: Put on Coast Guard approved life preservers {Personal Flotation Devices} on everyone going in the Bote. The Coast Guard fine for not having a PFD for each person aboard is $2,500! Wearing a PFD is wise because accidents rarely include time to put one on.

14 – Launch: Push the Bote into water deep enough for the leeboards and the rudder to be vertical. Rotate the rudder into vertical position. On the bottom of the rudder bracket, tighten the wing nut only sufficient to keep it vertical, so that the rudder tilts up if it bumps something under water.

Lower the leeboard on the side of the Bote that the wind blows the sail [down wind]. Opposite the sail, keep that leeboard out of the water; else it may swing out away from the Bote while sailing. When sailing straight down wind, both leeboards may be raised out of the water to reduce resistance in the water.

To make turns pointing the Bote toward the source of the wind [a tack], first sail up close to the wind and then spiral the Bote through the wind. Jamming the tiller over will slow the Bote and the tack may fail.

To make turns with the source of the wind behind the Bote [a gybe], sail straight down wind, pull the boom in overhead while sailing straight, turn slightly to put the wind on the other side of the sail, and when the sail wants to shift to the other side DO NOT HOLD BACK ON THE ROPE [MAIN SHEET] ! or like any small sail boat, the Bote could be capsized. Then, trim up as needed.

While sailing in highest reasonable wind, the side cable [shroud] opposite the incoming wind should sag 1⁄2” (1.25cm) to 1” (2.5cm). If you over tighten a cable, a wind gust may add to the tension and cause the cable to fail, as intended, to reduce the chance of the Bote capsizing in a wind gust.

If the boom passes overhead too low, in a safe location, ease the back stay turnbuckles and tighten the bow stay while pushing the mast forward. Alternatively, it is comfortable to sit down between seats with your back against the side of the hull on the side the wind is coming from [upwind side].

15 – Safety: In the event that the Bote capsizes, if covered by the sail, swim down and out from under the sail because suction between the water and sail could block a swimmer from getting to the air. Release the rope to the boom [main sheet] and turn the Bote upright. Row to shore or get a tow. On the land, roll the Bote on its side. The Bote will not sink; do not swim away from the swamped Bote unless it is absolutely safe to do so.

Sail Kit (Lateen) – Break down

1- Landing: Sail to a favorable landing location, release the rope [main sheet] to the boom. To make landing easier, release the halyard and lower the sail. Ease out the bow stay, laying the mast down the middle of the bote. Raise up the leeboards, and tie up the rudder. Row ashore and pull the boat out of the water.

Avoid overhead power lines going to the location where the boat can be packed up and the parts stowed.

2- Traveler, rudder & leeboards: Remove the equipment, replacing the washers and wing nuts on the bolts to avoid their loss.

3- Boom: Remove the lower tube [boom] from the mast ring [gooseneck]. Replace the wing nut on the ring bolt to avoid its loss.

4- Mast: To retain the length of the shrouds and stays, untwist the cables with the turnbuckle bodies from the bolts on the mast collar keeping the turnbuckle body jammed on the cable’s eye bolt. Remove the bow stay from the bow grommets. Disconnect the rope (mainsheet) blocks from the boom and close the clips [shackles] to avoid their loss.

5-* Stowing the sail: Roll the sail up and tie it alongside the boom and gaff. Avoid wrapping the sail around the tubes because rubbing during transport could put a hole through the sail material.

Step 5- Stowing the sail

6 – Pack up the Bote: The cables, lines, and mast step can be kept in a bag (not included). If you have kept the plastic shipping sleeve, insert the sail assembly into this sleeve to protect the sail and tubes. For transport, securely tie down the Bote, mast, and sail assembly. Carefully store the Bote, sail assembly, and parts to avoid their damage or loss.

7- Planning: Get ready for your next sailing adventure, and attempt to keep the sailing stories believable, please.

Hardware Parts:

Tiller to rudder bolt
Rudder hinge bolt (two)
Leeboard bolt (two)
Mast step screw (four)
Pad eye (four)
Shackle (six)
Lanyard (two)